Thermal Paste vs. Liquid Metal
Both go between the CPU die and the heatsink. The difference is performance, risk, and who should be using each one.
Right for most builds
Thermal Paste
- +Works on every surface: CPU, GPU, laptop, console
- +Safe to apply and easy to clean off
- +No compatibility checks required
- +Works from the first boot
- −Slightly higher temps than liquid metal on IHS builds
For experienced builders only
Liquid Metal
- +3–8°C better on desktop CPUs with IHS
- +Up to 10–20°C better on compatible laptops
- +Highest performance on delidded CPUs
- −Electrically conductive; one drop on the socket can destroy the board
- −Corrodes aluminum heatsinks permanently
- −Never safe on GPUs or consoles
How much cooler does liquid metal actually run?
It depends on where you apply it and what is underneath. The IHS (integrated heat spreader) on a modern desktop CPU adds thermal resistance between the die and the paste. Even so, the gains from liquid metal on an IHS build are real but modest: roughly 3–8°C under sustained load compared to a high-quality thermal paste.
The larger gains come from delidded CPUs, where liquid metal sits directly on the bare silicon die. Here the performance gap widens considerably, making liquid metal the clear choice for extreme overclockers.
On compatible laptops with confirmed copper heatsink contacts and no aluminum surfaces, liquid metal can deliver 10–20°C improvements in typical cases. This is because the heatsink sits directly on the die with very little gap. Note that most laptops cannot use liquid metal at all due to aluminum heatsink components.
Why liquid metal requires care
It is electrically conductive
Liquid metal is a gallium alloy. If it contacts the CPU socket pins, motherboard pads, or any nearby SMD component, it creates a short circuit. This can permanently destroy the motherboard or CPU. The socket area must be masked with polyimide tape or silicone before application.
It corrodes aluminum
Gallium dissolves aluminum on contact. If your heatsink has aluminum contact surfaces, liquid metal will corrode them irreversibly within days. You must confirm your heatsink is copper or nickel-plated copper before using liquid metal. Most budget air coolers use aluminum. Many mid-range coolers use copper heatpipes with aluminum fins; the contact base may still be copper or nickel-plated.
Not suitable for GPUs or consoles
GPU dies have SMD components (capacitors, resistors) within millimetres of the die edge. Even careful application risks contact and a short circuit. Consoles (PS5, Xbox Series X/S) use aluminum vapor chambers; liquid metal would corrode them immediately. These are hard limits with no exceptions.
Which one should you use?
Thermal paste: right for most people
Use it if you are new to PC building, repasting a laptop or console, cooling a GPU, or just want a clean repaste with no compatibility concerns.
Liquid metal: only with proper preparation
Consider it only if you are working on a delidded CPU, have confirmed a copper or nickel-plated heatsink, are comfortable masking the socket area, and understand the aluminum compatibility rule.
Before using liquid metal: checklist
If any item above is unclear or unanswered, use thermal paste. There is no performance benefit worth a destroyed motherboard.
Liquid Fusion Supreme ships with polyimide tape included, so you have everything needed for a safe application straight out of the box.
One thing they share: both need a flat surface
Neither thermal paste nor liquid metal fills meaningful gaps. Both require the heatsink to sit flat against the die with near-zero clearance after mounting. If you have a gap to fill (VRAM chips, M.2 SSD, irregular components), you need thermal pads or thermal putty instead.